Whenever I can’t leave town, but I want to escape the Renaissance Disneyland that Florence has become, I go to Paperback Exchange to hide out for an hour or two.
Established almost 30 years ago as a second-hand, trade-in, English bookshop, Paperback Exchange began life as a tiny store, on a busy, dusty corner, crammed with jumbled piles of books. In 2005, Maurizio and Emily moved the shop to a tranquil street in the heart of the city, less than a block from the Duomo.
The new place has two expansive rooms with large windows, comfortable reading chairs and well-organized shelves. It has a welcoming, cozy atmosphere and is a lovely place to browse, read or hang out and chat.
Paperback Exchange has evolved over the years into not only a well-known and respected independent bookstore, but also has become a focal point for the English-speaking community in Florence. The store holds regular events, such as poetry readings, literary discussions and a children’s story hour.
Today, Paperback Exchange stocks thousands of new and used paperback and hardback titles while still continuing to welcome trade-ins. It is also the “campus bookstore” for the North American universities in Florence and central Italy.
For the tourist, Paperback Exchange is a prime destination to find travel guides and new or used books for the road, as well as a spot to lighten a suitcase by trading in those books that are no longer wanted. The friendly staff is always ready with reading advice and even helpful directions to the “best” Florence has to offer, be it a restaurant, panoramic view, museum or shop.
Unwary tourists risk getting hefty fines in some Italian cities and villages for doing things that are perfectly legal everywhere in the world.
At Eraclea, near Venice, The Independent of London rightly reports, “parents need to keep a beady eye on their children: sandcastles are banned, as they ‘obstruct the passage’ along the beach.”
“Two people may sit down on a park bench in the city of Novara [Piedmont], but if a third person joins them and it’s after 11pm, all three are breaking the law. In Viareggio, the benches may contain as many people as care to squeeze on to them, but if one of them puts his feet up on it, he risks a fine.”
Can you sit on the Spanish Steps or in the Loggia di Lanzi of Piazza Signoria? And if you can, are you allowed to eat a sandwich? And if eating is against the law, can you drink from a can of soda? And if not, is a bottle of water allowed?
In Florence, you can’t play Frisbee in the piazza or offer to wash windshields at the intersections. Recently, Florence outlawed the use of the centuries-old Florentine gigllio (lilly) unless a royalty is paid to the city, but you are probably safe until they figure out how much the royalty will be.
bir & fud, a trendy beer and pizza joint on a narrow busy pedestrian street in the Trastevere neighborhood of Rome, will put a smile on your face every time you think of the name or the food.
With an ever-changing menu of artisanal beers on tap and over 100 different bottled brews, this is the premier beer destination for all of Italy, not just Rome. bir & fud not only prizes the yeast in its beer, but also that in its special pizza and focaccia dough, the revered lievito madre. Order the fresh-daily buffalo mozzarella as an antipasto or better yet, have a pizza margherita con bufala.
The bir & fudblog is written in Italian, but is easy to navigate to find the ‘fud’ menu and the ‘bir’ list. There is a nearby botegga where the bottled beer and other items are for sale.
bir & fud
Via Benedetta, 23 Rome (Trastevere) Map Open every day 12:00pm to midnight
Reservations are necessary for dinner (call before 6pm). Tel. 06.5894016.
The noise, the traffic, the heat, the dust of 600-year-old buildings and the exhaust of motor scooters and Pullman buses; the squadrons of German and Italian tourists dutifully following the high-held umbrella or long stemmed plastic rose; “too much ‘David’,” ditto the Madonnas with Child – so why does anyone venture to Florence, Italy anymore, much less return again and again?
Noted author, Mary McCarthy enumerates each of these complaints and about one hundred more in the first ten pages of her narrative guide The Stones of Florence. The amazing thing is that she wrote the book forty years ago. The only difference today is that now hordes of Russian and Japanese tourists are also being herded through the narrow, sidewalkless streets, urged on by honking taxis and scooters.
In the next 200 pages of her book, McCarthy eloquently answers the question “How can you stand it?” But I have my own personal cure: one that every visitor to the city can use. I escape to museums, which, though listed in almost every guidebook, are rarely visited by tourists, and never by tour groups.
The following are four of my favorites:
Museo della Specola
The Florence Zoological Museum or La Specola must be one of the most off beat museums in all of Europe. It will certainly appeal to most children and to any adult who possesses a whimsical, but slightly macabre, sense of humor.
Tucked away on the third floor of a palazzo on Via Romana, just past the Palazzo Pitti, this small museum boasts room after well-organized room of stuffed or preserved mammals, mollusks, birds and reptiles — from the smallest tapeworm and hummingbird to a taxidermist’s ultimate accomplishment, a grinning hippopotamus. Although it may seem as if this was the collection of a nineteenth century colonial great white hunter, in reality the zoological exhibits came from the collection of Grand Duke Leopold of Lorraine who ruled Tuscany in the late 1700s, and from the vast seventeenth century Medici scientific collection.
The most remarkable section of the museum begins after the room of stuffed crocodiles and giant turtles. The next nine rooms could be a scene out of Frankenstein or a dissection lab, although without the smell of formaldehyde. The floors are of ancient blood red polished tiles and the yellowing beige plastered walls compliment a collection of 1,500 anatomical models and body parts, created from colored wax.
A school of ceroplastic (wax) modelers flourished at La Specola from 1775 to 1895. The wax models were used in medical schools for teaching aids. Napoleon visited the museum and ordered a set of the wax dissections for France. In 1850, the American dean of Louisiana’s medical college came to Florence to obtain copies for his school. Organized by physiological system, the highlights of the collection are six full sized male and female eviscerated figures lying in glass cases on long thread-bare silk pillows and three bug-eyed skeletal/musculature models standing on glass-enclosed pedestals.
In the final room there are the four display boxes of gruesome allegorical scenes, created between 1691 and 1694 by wax modeler Gaetano Zumbo, entitled “The Plague”, “The Triumph of Time”, “The Corruption of the Body” and “The Effects of Syphilis.” In the same room with the Zumbo tableaus is “The Anatomy of the Male Head” – a wax model of the brain housed inside a real human skull.
Those people with a passion for knights in shining armor will love the Stibbert Museum. However, those with a passion for almost anything else will also find reason to love the Stibbert museum. Frederick Stibbert, a British aristocrat (1838-1906), was an eccentric, eclectic packrat who traveled extensively, collecting paintings, furniture, bronzes, umbrellas, china and ceramic dishware and knickknacks, candle sticks, fans, and most every kind of antique.
Stibbert’s main obsession, however, was for armor and weapons. He obtained thousands of suits of armor from Europe, the Middle East and Asia. The most impressive room displays a “cavalcade” where a procession of ten 16th century armored horsemen astride armored horses, twelve armed soldiers on foot, and four Islamic costumed horsemen appear to march under the gaze of a statue of St. George and the defeated dragon. Stibbert also collected costumes. The museum contains rare and important examples of European, Islamic, and Japanese dress, both military and civilian.
One of most historically interesting costumes is the regal garb worn by Napoleon in 1805 when he was crowned Emperor of Italy, displayed among Stibbert’s extensive collection of Napoleonic artifacts and memorabilia.
The museum comprises over sixty rooms of the historic villa that was the Stibbert home. The villa is fascinating in its own right; it is located in the foothills at the edge of Florence and is surrounded by one of the few original unspoiled Italianate gardens, with exotic plants and a small lake.
The Stibbert Museum is frequently empty because it is not in the center of Florence, but it is easily reached by taking a taxi or the No. 4 city bus from the train station.
Marino Marini Museum
Part of the charm of the Marino Marini Museum is the clean modern design and sense of spaciousness found inside the facade of the original building, a deconsecrated fourteenth century church. The museum, created in 1988, contains an extensive collection of painting, drawings and sculptures of contemporary Pistoian artist Marino Marini (1901-1980).
The open expansive interior operates on many different levels with walkways, balconies, landings, platforms and stairs, providing the visitor with varied views of the paintings and large sculptures. There are also private spaces where pieces of sculpture are tucked away in smaller, subtly lit areas that give an intimate feel to the art.
Marini, one of Italy’s best-known abstract artists, is noted for his large rough-hewn and elemental bronzes. He concentrated much of his work on studies of young men on horseback. The sketches, plaster models, and final bronzes of this series can be found throughout the museum. (One of the most interesting of the horsemen, however, (the one with the removable genitalia) is in the Peggy Guggenheim Museum in Venice.)
The Marino Marini Museum frequently hosts shows of other modern artists.
Opificio delle Pietre Dure
The Workshop of Semi-Precious Stones, which specialized in Florentine mosaic work, or inlaid work with semi-precious stones (pietre dure), was founded in 1588 by Grand Duke Ferdinando I de’ Medici.
The workshop’s original purpose was to coordinate the various craftsmen who were already working on the Chapel of the Princes in the church of San Lorenzo. The intricate work was also used to decorate cabinets, tabletops, and other smaller objet d’art with the depiction of flowers, fruit and birds, usually against a black background. The Medici used these items in the rooms of the Palazzo Pitti and as gifts to visiting dignitaries. In 1975, the workshop became a national restoration and conservation laboratory, school, library and archive, dedicated to the restoration of stone, marble, bronze, terracotta, and pietre dure.
The museum, created in 1995, houses a superb arrangement showing the work and the history of the original workshop. The collection contains an extensive array of items — tables, cabinets, jewelry boxes, fireplaces, pictures, and jewelry — made with semi-precious stone inlay, scagliola (painted plaster imitating marble or pietre dure), as well as decorative painted shale and slate.
A loft space within the museum has been converted into an educational area with original eighteenth and nineteenth century equipment and tools used for cutting and shaping stone, a graphic display of the procedures used in the various crafts, and a collection of cataloged mineral samples, mined in Tuscany and throughout the world.
If Mary McCarthy were alive to see present day Florence she probably would be more cantankerous than ever, but she also would be secretly pleased to find that the Florentines continue to shoulder the burden of keeping Renaissance art and history alive and accessible in their beloved city. Over three million tourists visited Florence in the year 2002. By 2005, the number is expected to rise to five million. The wait in the ticket line of the Uffizi Gallery from June to October can be as long as five hours. It is comforting to know that there are so many pleasant, interesting museums where a visitor can escape the madding crowd for a few hours.
Museo della Specola Via Romana, 17
Tel. (055) 228-8251
Open: Weekdays & Sun. 9am – 1pm; Sat. 9am – 5pm; Closed: Wed.
Cost: 4 euro
Nearby Café: Caffé Pitti; Piazza dei Pitti, 9: Tel. (055) 239-9863 ; Open everyday for lunch and dinner; Tuscan Cuisine with specialty dishes with truffles.
Via Stibbert, 26 (City bus # 4 from train station)
Tel.: (055) 475-520
Open: Mon. – Wed. 10am – 2pm; Fri. & Sat 10am – 6pm; Closed: Thu.
Cost: 6 euro
Nearby Pizzeria: Pizzeria Spera, Via della Cernaia, 9/r; Tel. (055) 495-286 , Evening hours only; Closed Mon. (take-away pizza available); or take a picnic and dine in the gardens of the villa.
Marino Marini Museum
Piazza S. Pancrazio
Tel.: (055) 219-432
Open: Daily 10am – 5pm; Closed: Sun., Tues. & August
Cost: 4 euro
Nearby Restaurant: Osteria di Giovanni, Via del Moro, 22; Tel. (055)284-897 ; Lunch & Dinner; Closed Tues.: Tuscan cuisine.
Opificio delle Pietre Dure
Via degli Alfani, 78
Tel.: (055) 265-111
Open: Daily 8:15-2pm; Thu. 8:15 – 7pm; Closed: Sun.
Cost: 2 euro
Nearby Gelato: Carabé, Via Ricasoli, 60r; Closed: Mon.; Gelato with lemons and pistachios from Sicily, famous for granita.